Friday, July 10, 2009

Treasures from the National Museum of Anthropology, Archaeology, and History

Moche culture (CE 100 - CE 900)



"Erotic" ceremonial vessel



Chimu culture (CE 900 - CE 1460)


Gold mask and breastplate


Gold necklace


Chimu necklace




Wari culture (CE 500 - CE 900)

Wari cane and wool war helm


Wari vessels


Wari stirrup vessel


Wari vessels



Inca (CE 1200 - CE 1533)


Inca quipu, knotted cords used to keep records


Colonial period (1533 - 1824)
Painting of St. Rose of Lima

War of the Pacific (1879 -1883)

Fragment of the table service of the monitor Huascar



Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Sex, Death and ... Huayno



While the rest of the world has been caught up with the demise and apparent apparition of Michael Jackson, we here in Peru have been held captive by the drama surrounding the murder of huayno singer Alicia Delgado who was killed on the same day in which Jackson died.

What has captured the attention of the nation is the emerging details of the crime and the weird and sordid web of mediocre characters surrounding it and Delgado herself.

Alicia Delgado developed a career singing popular Peruvian Andean tunes for the expat community in New Jersey. In time, she managed to get a gig in Lima, was a hit here as well, and soon was living here again essentially full-time. In the US she left an ex-husband and a son, who had opted for remaining with his dad.

Heartsick, she found solace in the frienship of another huayno singer, Abencia Meza, who had herself risen from hardship by wating tables at a huayno bars and begging for a chance at the mike. Eventually, it emerged that Abencia openly declared herself a lesbian and publicly stated that she loved Alicia, who although evasive on subject, continued to live with Abencia and hold hands with her in public.

Interestingly enough, though this didn't sit well with all of Alicia's family, the public seems to have accepted it and the pair's collective and individual popularity remained undiminished, specially that of Alicia who was heralded as the "Princess of Peruvian Folklore" and was noted for bringing harp music into modern huayno when so many others were relying on electric guitars and basses.

On the 23rd of June and over subsequent day we watched the details emerge as if from an eyedropper: "vernacular singer Alicia Delgado found dead in her hotel room"; "popular singer killed in her apartment"; "found strangled with a leather thong"; "suicide?"; "the Princess was stabbed!"; "car found, driver missing"; "traces of semen".

All eyes, of course, turned to Abencia, with whom Alicia had a few weeks back had an altercation and against whom she had filed criminal charges for battery. They had apparently reconciled to an extent, but the charges had not been withdrawn nor had Alicia returned to live with Abencia. Instead, Alicia had declared on TV that she had a beau and that marriage was not out of the question.

For her part, Abencia fainted on camera and then gave an interview from her bed, to which she was confined by doctor's orders due to "nerves". And that's were the circus started to get fun.

Abencia, who had an established history of violence -a few years ago, for example, she shot a guy in the leg from the stage when she spied him sneaking into one of her concerts without paying- denied any involvement and said that at the top of her list of suspects were Alicia's driver, Felipe  Pedro Mamanchura, her harpist, Miguel Salas, and her sister, Clarisa, whom Abencia said was jealous of her sister's success.

Salas, for his part, declared that he had had a sexual relationship with Alicia but that he wasn't the beau whom she had mentioned in the interview, nor had he killed her, and that Abencia was most likely responsible for the murder. Clarisa, herself, likewise pointed to Abencia, whith whom it turns out she had herself had a romantic relationship while Abencia was partnered with Alicia.

Salas then produced two videos recorded days before the murder in which Alicia displays Abencia's cellphone to the camera and shows text messages sent to it over a number of weeks by Abencia's other lovers. Although Alicia never publicly admitted the nature of her relationship with Abencia the message in the videos is clear: Abencia's been cheating on me.

Then, remarkably, Alicia says to the camera that if anything should befall her Abencia should be held responsible.

But, even then all was perhaps not was as simple as it would seem. During the filming a message was received on the phone which upset Alicia. It was sent from an internet cafe and had a sexual tone and language markedly at variance with the more romantic tenor of previous messages, raising the question of whether it was sent pursposely in the knowledge that Alicia had Abencia's phone and was filming it. Who could it be? Why?

Well, one of the people helping film -besides Salas, Alicia's sometime lover- was Gaudi, Alicia's step daughter, whose father, Alicia's ex-husband could stand to gain control of her properties and assets in the US.

In the meantime, Mamanchura, who had been fired by Abencia but rehired by Alicia and had been constantly at her side in her last weeks of life, had been captured near the Ecuadorean border with s/. 2000 which he said had been given to him by Abencia so he could flee the country. He confessed to the police that he had killed Alicia at Abencia's order and under her employ.

He later retracted those statements, which had been made without his lawyer being present, but Abencia, though confined to bed rest for "six to eight weeks", was arrested by police after attempting to get a visa at the Italian embassy.




In the meantime, the rest of us are heartily sick of the "Abenciamania" which has struck the media, which bombards us day and night with the sordid details and speculation, and which everyone is realizing has been a boon to government in that it has buried or pushed aside nearly all other news and discussion such as the recent tragic events in the jungle, an ongoing conflict with the public transport unions over recently enacted laws, and popular discontent in the interior with government economic policies.

Ah, well, sunt pueri pueri, puerilia tractant.

Jorge Chavez Monument


This is one of my favourite monuments in Lima. It struck a chord with me when I was a child because my aunts Toya and Segundina, my uncle Orlando, and my cousins Mari and Mariana, lived a block away on Yauyos street. The monument is also on the way to the city center, thus there were many occasions to pass by it. It was also notable to me in that, unlike so many other monuments around, I knew the story of the figures depicted and the event being conmemorated.

The monument conmemorates the 1910 flight of Jorge Chávez from Brig, Switzerland, to Domodossola, Italy, on a specially modified Bleriot XI monoplane. Chávez was a Peruvian aeronaut raised in France and is the hero of Peruvian aviation. On his famous flight he set a world altitude record at 2651 meters (8697 feet) and became the first person to fly over the Alps.

Unfortunately, as he prepared to land, a crosswind sheared off the wings of his plane causing it to nosedive into ground from 60 feet, seriously wounding Chávez, who died from his wounds four days later. Thus, the monument itself depicts the fatal flight of Icarus, in ancient Greek mythology the son of the inventor Daedalus, who designed wood, wax, and feather wings for himself and Icarus in order to escape the isle of Crete where they were being imprisoned by a Greek king. The wings worked, but Icarus, exhuberant and unmindful of his father's warning, flew too close to the sun which melted the wax, causing Icarus to plunge to his death.

The monument depicts four figures of Icarus, one on each face of the monument: Icarus taking flight, rising, rising higher, and finally beginning to fall, such that as one progressed around the traffic circle each stage in Icarus' flight would be revealed. Or, would be if the design and the traffic were aligned.

As it turned out, the monument was designed by a European artist and thus was intended to be viewed from traffic proceeding clockwise, but Peruvians drive on the right side of the road so traffic enters and moves around the circle counterclockwise and counter to the perspective of the monument!

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Day at the Beach

On Sunday, to get away from Lima for a bit, we loaded ourselves into my cousin Juancho's and my uncle Willy's cars and headed down to Punta Hermosa, hoping for a change of scenery and a good seafood meal by the ocean.

Punta Hermosa is a a beach town a few kilometers south of Lima. It is just south of these islands, which face the long, long beach of San Pedro, where I often spent time with my friends the Zamudio's when I was a child. Their mom would pile us kids into her Mini and we'd drive down for the day. The surf was notoriously rough at that beach, but that just added to the excitement of it. The islands are called the San Pedro Islands, but are often referred to as The Whale.

As for Punta Hermosa itself, the water was quite rough today, but the town has a nice, curving beach, one end of which is marked by a small peninsula which was once an island separated from the mainland by a few dozen yards. As it was a favoured fishing spot, the townfolk built a causeway to it, and today due to the accumulation of sand along the causeway, it is no longer an island. It is presumed -no one seems to know for sure- that it was this outcropping that gave the locale its name as Punta Hermosa means "beatiful point."




Perhaps due to the rough surf or to some offshore feeding frenzy by large fish or dolphins, the beach was littered with pieces of jellyfish, including this singular chunck which led to all manner of crude jokes due to its resemblance to certain parts of a woman's anatomy.











We spent about and hour walking and playing on the beach before lunch at an ocean-front restaurant, and had a great time all around, before heading home and collapsing.




Here are two videos of the day. The first shows a crab crawling around my niece's leg and Mito rounding it up and then chasing his daughter down the beach with it. The second shows Mito with the girls braving the surf.








Friday, July 3, 2009

Nishida

After stopping by La Bombonniere I decided to walk a block further up Burgos street to look for another small eatery I had heard about.

My path took me past the long abandoned Clinica Italiana. The clininic, a large edifice in that grand, marble-clad institutional style so common in the first half of the 20th century, was establsihed by the Societa Italiana di Beneficenza e Asistenza and was long counted among the better health care centers in the city.

I have memories of it because my grandfather was interned there at one point in the 1970s. He was so badly off that my parents took my brother and I there to see him in what amounted to an unspoken chance to say good bye. To our great joy h e recovered from that illness, and lived for another decade.

In the 1990s the hospital was forced to shut down as a result of the hostage crisis at the nearby Japanese ambassador's residence. It has since been acquired by the Mapfre company which planned to reopen it with a crematorium, which has not happened due to the neighbors' opposition. Until, and if, that gets resolved, the clinic is left to the vultures which haunt its roof.


At the end of the block, I found what I was looking for: a small, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, without an external sign. This is Bodega Nishida, which began as corner grocery store run, as so many in this city, by Japanese immigrants. The son of the family, Carlos Nishida, acquired a knack for cooking and added cooked foods to the family business. In time this was expanded into Nishida restaurant right next door to the shop.

Nishida is known -among those who know about it- for its sandwiches, and specially for the unique flavor of its glazed pork (lechon glaceado) sandwiches. The pork is slowly cooked with cognac, pisco, red wine, honey, sugar, and aji colorado.


I had never eaten there before so I decided to eat my sandwich plain, without any dressings or condiments, the better to taste the pork. I must say that it was delicious, and well worth the search to be sure.

With Nishida being only two or three blocks from home, it may well get another visit from me at some lunch time.



Nishida
Burgos 310
San Isidro - Lima




La Bonbonniere

Just a block from San Felipe, on the fourth block of Burgos street, there is to be found one of Lima's classic cafes, La Bonbonniere. It has been there as long as I can remember and used to be famed for its pastries and, well, its bon bons. As as kid, I would occasionally be taken there by my parents, who would let me pick out a bon bon. To a child like myself the selection of treats, in its many shapes and colors, was as heady as their taste.

In the 1980s, however, La Bonbonniere -like so many institutions- fell on hard times due to the severe economic crisis and the war. It limped on, and was dealt what well could have been its death knell by the hostage crisis at the nearby Japanese ambassador's residence in 1996, which caused the police and military to cordon off the area. La Bonbonniere's owner, a lady from Belgium, was forced to sell the business.

Fortunately, it was picked up by Marisa Giulfo, one of Lima's most noted restauranteurs and caterers, and La Bonbonniere was revived, although now as a cafe and patisserie. Today the cafe is a bit more upscale than in its previous incarnation, if that can be imagined.

I decided to stop by there yesterday afternoon for a snack, and was well-rewarded with a chicken and mushroom empanada (turnover) and a capuccino.

The price for a prix fixe lunch (s/. 35) at La Bonbonniere is fairly high compared to places not too far away where a 3-course lunch can be obtained for s/. 6 (2 dollars), but the quality of the food is incomparable.

I might suggest that Susana and her friend, Aricia, head over there for the Tea Hour when they'll be here later in the month.





La Bonbonniere
Burgos 415
San Isidro - Lima